Day 15: Bassano del Grappa

Today's sky was the brightest blue, almost assaulting in its vibrancy. It was one of those cold, cheerful mornings where you're bundled up just right so you can sit outside with a tiny cup and turn the pages of your tiny book -- the pages a delicate velvet in your slowly-numbing hands. 

Wooden shacks are going up in the center. More green wreaths with gold and silver bells. That's where today I also saw a coffin, carefully descending from the church doors and carried by a dozen gloves. I looked away.